Matriarchs, Meze and the Evil Eye
Costa Ayiotis
Melinda Ferguson Books/NB Publishers
Review: Karen Watkins
This memoir captures the essence of a Greek family as it delves into Ayiotis’s childhood and early experiences of belonging, culture, family and most importantly food.
As a prequel to My Big Fat Greek Taverna, the story is set mostly in 1960s and 70s South Africa.
The chapters revolve around the young protagonist, Costa, and the three formidable matriarchs in his life – his mother, grandmother and aunt – who compete not just for control of the kitchen but for his affection. This amusing rivalry unfolds amidst the challenges of immigrant life after the family choose to escape the changing landscape in Egypt.
Arriving with a few coins in his pocket, Costa’s cotton trader father is often absent from the home, complicating the family dynamics.
Meanwhile, Costa’s role as the narrator provides a light-hearted yet perceptive lens into the chaotic household.
In the kitchen, culinary battles rage, embodying the women’s attempts to assert their authority. Each dish they create becomes a love offering, a gesture of belonging, and a testament to the power of food to establish connections.
Ayiotis’s portrayal is enriched by Greek superstitions, cultural rituals and the pervasive sense of nostos – a longing for a distant homeland. The concept of the evil eye adds a mischievous layer with characters treading carefully around compliments for fear of jinxing themselves.
This colourful backdrop is further complemented by Ayiotis’s reflection on Greek identity: “Greek is not a country; it’s an emotion,” he writes, highlighting the unique nostalgia that permeates the immigrant experience.
With its vivid storytelling, the story weaves together the personal and the political, offering glimpses into the complexities of South African society during that era. It also highlights how food – whether it’s rooibos-infused biltong in America or lovingly made meals at home – becomes an enduring connection across borders.
Ayiotis’s memoir is not just a story about family but a celebration of life, food and the people who shape us. Honest, funny, and layered, it’s a heartfelt tale about culture, tradition and the beauty found in everyday moments. It’s a recommended must-read that is sure to get salivary glands watering while putting a smile on your face.
